How to reveal your brightest, healthiest skin? In a word, it is Renewal. Renewing your skin can have powerful effects not only on your skin’s radiance and health but also on your confidence level. How do you reveal this transformative skin? First, you need to know everything that encompasses renewal, according to the Skin Health and Beauty pyramid which middle section lists Renewal as Moisturization, Exfoliation, and Cell Turnover and page 3 in the link above.
Moisturization, Exfoliation, and Cell Turnover are all important in revealing your brightest, healthiest skin. This post is mainly about exfoliation and cell turnover. Don’t worry before the end of the year, we will be exploring the whole skin pyramid.
Exfoliation for healthy skin
Exfoliation is an essential part of skin health as it removes dead or ineffective cells on the skin. Our bodies naturally shed dead cells on their own. But as we age however shedding or exfoliating slows down leading to a build-up of dead cells on our skin. This build-up can make our skin look dull, aged, and dry. It also can add to the hyperpigmentation on your skin. “Hyperpigmentation” can be cell damage along with a build-up of dead skin cells that are just not shedding. Therefore not allowing new healthy skin cells to come to the top of the surface. Most people will notice this on their neck in the increased “necklace lines”. The build-up of dead skin cells can also hide other underlying skin issues, so it is important to remove them.
Cell turnover ratio estimates
A Cell rate ratio that is usually used to state cell rate turnover is that in our early 20s skin turns over every 14 to 21 days. After those early 20s to your 30s, your skin turns every 28 days. That is only 7 days difference not too back for a 5 year turnaround. It gets worse, in your 40s, it turns over every 45 to 60 days. That is a very big leap. So you can see why we could be accelerating our aging by not exfoliating by another means. Yet, in your 50s and beyond it keeps getting worse, the cycle is extended to 60 to 90 days. Wow! That is quite a difference from your early 20s. Of course, these are just estimates as health, lifestyle habits, and genetics also influence your body’s natural cell turnover rate.
Cell turnover importance in healthy skin
But why is cell turnover even important? This topic can get rather detailed and complicated but the simple answer is every organism needs cells to renew (or turnover) to promote newer, healthier cells to protect itself from environment or degradation. So, it isn’t just anti-aging benefits. It is to also protect your skin from everything out in the environment that is attacking it, basically just to keep your skin healthy.
Without exfoliation, dead skin cell accumulation will build up on the skin and can enhance underlying skin issues (as referred to before), make your complexion look dull, and inhibit moisturization from getting to your skin effectively. It can also inhibit blood flow, which is why diabetics need to be careful to take care of their feet with exfoliation. Exfoliation helps increase blood flow by reducing the amount of dead skin cells that blood has to pump through to get to your tippy toes. An example could be a squishy ball when you squeeze it the water flows freely but if that ball is covered with a piece of felt, it no longer flows the same. It is more complicated than that of course, but that is a simple example.
Types of exfoliation
There are mainly two types that can be done safely at home and they are manual (physical) or chemical. Manual or physical can be a rough material such as an exfoliation glove or even a scrub. A chemical is a type of acid that comes from fruits, dairy, or facial acid.
AHA vs BHA chemical exfoliates
I am going to be somewhat brief on AHA/BHA and Retin-A (retinol) exfoliants in the post because I will go more in-depth into these in later posts.
AHA are some of the most popular acids on the market. Some of the most actively used AHAS are Glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from lactose), malic acid (from fruits), and tartaric acid (from grapes). Glycolic is the smallest molecule in this line and because it can travel deeper into the layers of the skin it can be very irritating to the skin but it is also my favorite of these acids. I use all of them from time to time, lactic acid is very gentle and some like to use it every day on their face. I wouldn’t recommend that practice if you use another form of exfoliation regularly (as in Retin-A or retinol). Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing.
Retin-a or Retinol or Retinaldehyde
Retin-A or retinol is also a very popular type of exfoliation. Also one of the most irritating with retinol being low on the scale of irritation. Retin-A and retinol also have other benefits but moisturization is not a benefit with these acids as some of the other acids. They are very drying on the skin.
Oily skin and chemical exfoliants
However, if you have oily skin, you probably don’t need to be as concerned about the skin with daily use of one or more exfoliants (not Retin-A or Retinol). Sebum on the skin has a more waxy-type feel to it if you compare it to an oil most other oils. (Jojoba is the closest type of oil to natural sebum on the skin. It has a more waxy feel to it). Sebum moisturizes and protects the skin but it can also cause congestion. Oily skin will produce more sebum (oily skin) so you don’t need to be as concerned with using a mild form of exfoliation twice a day. As in an aha/bha in your cleanser and an aha/bha toner at night, etc. Always start slowly and see what will work for you. Nobody knows your skin like you do.
Chemical skin peels with high percentages of acid for your healthiest skin
Again, I am not a trained professional and these are from my experiences with at-home peels and even in-clinic peels. I have had chemical skin peels for many years both at home and at the derm’s office or by a trained esthetician.
Skin peels can be used on feet, hands, face, neck, underarms, and even stretch marks.
Types of Peels for Maturing Skin for bright, healthy skin
Light Peels (higher concentration peels than found in toners, etc)
Light or superficial peels use mild acids like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA). They gently exfoliate the skin, improving texture and color, and can be done with little to no downtime. Examples include glycolic acid and lactic acid peels, which can be performed regularly to maintain a brighter complexion.
A product that comes to mind is The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution, this is a serious peel, but it does have some calming ingredients in it which makes it less irritating on the skin. For that reason, people tend to think you can do whatever with this peel, not true. Don’t leave it on longer than suggested unless using it on your feet. Yes, this product can be used all over your body but I am not recommending it. Use the Good Molecules Pineapple Exfoliating Powder for $16.00 for 2.1 oz. Use it every time you shower, it is that gentle and works.
Exfoliation for the healthiest and brightest feet
For your feet, I do recommend, the Ordinary’s peel above. You can put this peel on your feet with more on the bottoms and around your nails. Put a grocery bag or zippy over your feet. Then a pair of socks. You don’t want to fall if you have to get up for something. I usually go 5 to 10 minutes over for the feet the recommended time on the feet. Feet are a bit tougher than the skin on the face. It exfoliates the feet beautifully without overdoing it.
Chemical Pro Peels
Medium Peels
Medium peels penetrate deeper into the skin and are effective for treating fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation issues. These can be AHA and BHA in high concentrations of 30% to 80%. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is the most common type of medium peel, which surprises me but makes sense. It can be used around the eyes and on stretch marks in the lower concentrations. Medium peels require some downtime, as the skin will need time to heal and regenerate. They don’t need that much downtime. I wouldn’t go to work right after depending on the concentration. 24 hours later I will go to work. I am brave like that. Anything above, 30% is strong. Extremely strong and at that point you will need 3 to 20 days downtime depending on the percentage. Unless it is on your feet.
At-home skin peels and benefits
All of these peels are serious stuff. I would recommend that you go to a professional for at least a few skin peels to know what your skin’s reaction will be and what is normal for your skin. That is important before you try to do your own at home. I use Platinum Skin Care now for most of my peels. Yes, I use them regularly depending on my skin’s needs. (Regularly might mean a series of 6 peels, 4 weeks apart, once a year or it may mean a series of 3, 6 to 8 weeks apart, once or twice a year, again depending on the season, my skin, and my schedule).
There are many benefits of skin peels for mature skin besides what is mentioned above:
- Reduced Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Normal exfoliation does this but chemical acids in peels/toners can stimulate collagen production more. It is intensified in medium to deep peels.
- Improved Skin Tone and Texture: Regular peels can help to even out pigmentation, reduce age spots, and refine the skin’s texture.
- Increased Hydration: Some peels contain hydrating properties that can improve the skin’s moisture levels.
- Enhanced Absorption of Skin Care Products: This was already mentioned and just makes sense you remove the layer that is preventing your products from absorbing deeper into the layers of skin.
Considerations Before Getting a Skin Peel
Go to the Platinum Skin Peels on YouTube or the website (I can’t say this enough before you do any at-home peels even after having at least a few pro peels)
Do research before even considering doing it at home and be sterile like you are at a doctor’s office. Clean everything before starting and have all supplies on hand including gloves. You are not saving money if you get an infection.
- Skin Type and Sensitivity: You should find this out with your professional peels but if you choose to start on your own, start slow and take the quiz on the site linked above. Also, do more research on your own to feel comfortable with knowing your skin type and sensitivity.
- Professional Guidance: I am stressing this because I feel it is important. I do a lot of things on my own without professional guidance but this isn’t one of them. (If they tell you, you should never do it on your own. You will need to use your judgment because in most cases that simply isn’t true).
- Sun Protection: After a peel, the new skin is more susceptible to sun damage. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF to protect the fresh skin. Apply it as recommended for your environment, which nobody ever does but should be done after a peel.
- Patience: Some peels may require a series of treatments to achieve the desired results, so patience is key. Benefits are acclimating over time. Just like that damage to your skin. Those spots didn’t appear overnight. They have been beneath the skin for a long time waiting to come to the surface as you start producing less collagen, etc.
Skin peels can be a powerful tool in the arsenal against the signs of aging. Not just for aging, but for healthy skin as well. We all want to look like we are healthy and vibrated, even if we don’t feel that way.
Deep Peels
Deep peels, like phenol peels, target more significant signs of aging, such as deeper wrinkles and sun damage. These peels penetrate the lower dermal layers of the skin and offer dramatic results as well as dramatic risks. I don’t want to advise you to do these at home. They have a longer recovery period (as you are at home for a week for longer) carry many more risks and may require pain relief (even prescription pain relief), so a qualified professional should perform them.
What to expect with an at-home peel and pictures from mine:
If you have stayed this long on this post, below are the pictures from my peels. While you are peeling your skin, your skin will turn pink, red, and may even frost (again watch the videos on this so you know what you are looking for). It will be raw afterward, so be very gentle with your skin. I apply glycerin after my peels.
Next day reveal after the skin peel
Starting the next day you will be looking older than you have seen your skin ever and it will be turning darker. It isn’t all that pretty, which is why professionals always state that you need to start your peels or peel series so that your last peel is 4 to 6 weeks before an event.
Side of the eye view one day after the peel. It looks fine. The pores are more enlarged than usual and some spots are getting darker. Wrinkles or fine lines are darker so they look more pronounced. But other than that normal skin. I have no makeup on in this photo and this is a very close-up shot. I mean, hopefully, nobody is getting this close to your face with magnification.
Trigger warning if you get squimish at the sight of dried-up, brown skin. You probably should not go further, but if you don’t it is quite interesting to see from my viewpoint.
2nd day after the skin peel
Forehead on the 2nd day. I have a couple of pieces of flaking skin around my eyebrow and the forehead is drying up as if I have a no-color clay mask on or when you put Elmer’s glue on your hand as a child to see what it looked like when you peel it off your hand. That is what it is like dried glue on your face. You are starting to see some darker spots as well getting ready to peel.
3rd day after the skin peel
This is the 3rd day after the peel. Getting very dark now and my face feels very tight and dry. I have tinted sunscreen on in this photo because that is what I use. Any congestion in my face is extremely exaggerated. There are a few tiny bumps that have come to the surface. I have had a slight bit of flaking at this point but not much.
I have never had this happen before but above on the left the skin peeled off fairly deeply and left a line but it didn’t stay long and this area did one more series of flaking and peeling before it was completely done. Now, 2 cycles of peeling/flaking happens sometimes in some areas, that is not unusual.
Comparison photos – dead skin cells vs healthier skin cells
You can see here on the left, the skin after it has peeled revealing newer, healthy skin. I had just cleansed so it was a bit irritated but that went down quickly. Right next to it is before it peeled with all the dead skin cells on top. I am again wearing tinted sunscreen.
You have to keep that sunscreen on not only after your skin is fresh and new but also before so you don’t irritate your skin more with the sun and skin peels and flakes off unevenly so you never know when the new skin will peek through.
The lips photo – on the top is freshly peeled skin with a bit of Cerave healing gel on my lips because they were so dry I had to get something on them before the photo. Otherwise, just cleansed skin with nothing on it. The bottom one is the skin right before it started peeling off at the end of the day 3. I moved rooms so the lighting is different in the photos.
Getting very detailed with a piece of skin photo
This picture is of a piece of skin that peeled off. It is magnetized. Your skin doesn’t peel off in sheets. This is actually a bit bigger than the size of one of my fingernails. A bigger piece than most of them. Most skin cells will be just flakes. Yes, it gets in your hair and on your shirt. You will have to take more trips to the restroom to clean yourself up and apply moisturizer and sunscreen.
That is exfoliation on a medium peel. It is a bigger degree than just using a toner or a light peel but the results are far different as well.
Judge for yourself and see if the medium skin peel doesn’t show how to reveal your brightest, healthiest skin.
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